Glycation and aging.
Doctor Tiina Meder: “Aging is determined by many processes. To date, more than 300 theories of aging have been put forward. In recent years, the role of glycation and advanced glycation end products (AGEs) has been increasingly discussed in relation to skin aging, and the potential of anti-AGE strategies has attracted much interest from
pharmaceutical companies for the development of new anti-aging strategies and cosmeceutical compounds.
What is glycation?
Glycation was first diagnosed in diabetic patients as leading to the
accumulation of advanced glycation end products (AGE) in various tissues and
organs, such as blood vessels and retina. AGE products have been linked to
end-stage renal disease, atherosclerosis and other health-threatening
conditions. Of course, the skin is no exception. AGE products have been discovered both in the dermis and in the deep layers of the epidermis, in the skin of both young and older people. Apparently, the presence of AGEs in the skin of older people is more
pronounced, because their natural breakdown decreases with age.
Glycation is a specific reaction between sugars (mainly glucose and fructose) and
proteins, lipids or nucleic acids. Glycation transforms bound proteins and other
resources into dysfunctional molecules: collagen will become less flexible and
form a triple helix structure, and what is worse, this new helix is very difficult to
destroy or replace with new functional molecules. The lack of skin elasticity caused by transformed collagen quickly becomes irreversible.
Glycated molecules and glycation products (AGEs) increase the risk of photodamage to the skin, and ultraviolet radiation in turn stimulates glycation, creating a vicious circle. The risk of glycation is further increased in smokers, leading to premature wrinkles, uneven skin tone and loss of elasticity.
Recently, a link between glycation and eating habits: sugary diets play a crucial role in increasing glycation, as do products high in AGEs: roasted meats, toasted bread, dark-colored soft drinks, donuts. Sorry to bring you this news, but apparently baking, frying and grilling food is not the best way to look younger.
The good news is that healthy eating can reduce the amount of AGEs in the body.
A healthy “anti-glycation” diet should be low in monosaccharides (glucose AND fructose) and water-based cooking – boiling or steaming – is preferred. Some aromatic
herbs and spices could reduce the endogenous production of AGEs:
oregano, cloves, ginger, cinnamon and garlic are your friends. In addition, since glycation is accelerated by the activity of free radicals, the intake of antioxidants can inhibit the production of AGEs. The most effective is probably alpha-lipoic acid, but also carnitine, resveratrol and flavonoids can do you good, as well as zinc and manganese.
Research has been done on glycation inhibitors with promising results. For example,
orally taken aspirin blocks glycation effectively enough. Unfortunately, not many
ingredients are as effective when applied topically. Antioxidants such as vitamins C and E, green tea extract, resveratrol and some others can be called anti-glycation agents because their antioxidant activity helps to reduce the formation of AGEs.
However, antioxidants do not have a direct "decomposing" effect on the damaged
structural proteins in the epidermis and dermis. A more or less "direct" anti-glycation effect after topical application is shown by coenzyme Q-10 and pentapeptide-34 trifluoroacetate, the latter improving the skin's ability to produce coenzyme Q-10. Second-tier anti-glycation are lactobionic acid and maltobionic acid, carnosic acid, gluconolactone, aminoguanidine and alisine (rarely used in cosmetics), blueberry and pomegranate extracts and a universal skin strengthener, vitamin B3 or niacinamide.
The signs of glycation (stiffness, discoloration, loss of elasticity and barrier function,
wrinkles and dull complexion) can appear as early as 30-35, especially in smokers and
sunburn lovers. So if these things bother you, it is best to start preventive measures early.
Meder Beauty Science offers 3 anti-glycation solutions
Nrj-Soin Serum with vitamin B3 and blueberry extract for daily use. The serum
should be part of the daily routine and helps protect the skin from both
free radicals and the formation of AGEs.
Vita-Long Oil is an intensive treatment for already damaged skin, with a high concentration of coenzyme Q-10, vitamins C and E and carnosic acid from rosemary extract.
Vita-Long Oil should be applied for at least 7 weeks per year if you still smoke or if your skin is already damaged by the sun. Dr. Meder recommends applying it daily if
your skin is dry and already showing signs of aging.
Hydra-Fill Mask for dry skin and Myo-Fix Mask for a happy face, contain vitamin
E and gluconolactone, which provide a weekly anti-glycation boost, as a supplement to
your daily skin care routine or as a regular preventative measure if you are
not using specific anti-glycation products.”